Heating & Cooling
AC Repair
No cool air, a puddle at the air handler, or a new noise outside. We diagnose with instruments, price it before we start, and fix it right.
Heating & Cooling
No cool air, a puddle at the air handler, or a new noise outside. We diagnose with instruments, price it before we start, and fix it right.
Cooling repair covers the whole system, not just the box in the yard. That means the condenser outside, the evaporator coil sitting in your air handler or on top of your furnace, the line set running between them, the blower pushing air through the ducts, the condensate drain, and the low-voltage controls telling it when to run. Plenty of no-cool calls end at a part smaller than a fist: a burned run capacitor, a contactor with pitted points, a tripped float switch under the coil, a blown fuse on the control board.
Heat pumps get the same visit. A lot of equipment in this footprint heats and cools with one outdoor unit, so a July cooling problem can trace back to a reversing valve or a defrost board that only misbehaves in one mode. Ductless mini-splits fail differently again, usually at the blower wheel, the control board, or the inverter drive outside.
Cooling rarely quits all at once. It degrades, and the early symptoms are specific:
Two want fast action from you. Ice means shut cooling off and run the fan alone so the coil thaws, because running a frozen system pushes liquid refrigerant back at the compressor. Water near the equipment usually means a plugged condensate drain, and the longer it sits the more drywall it finds.
Guessing is the expensive way to fix an air conditioner. Our techs put instruments on the system before naming a part. That means reading the capacitor in microfarads against its printed rating instead of eyeballing the top of it, comparing compressor amp draw to rated load, checking static pressure across the filter and coil to prove whether airflow is the real culprit, and taking superheat and subcooling to judge the charge.
Low refrigerant is never the diagnosis by itself. Refrigerant is not consumed. If a system is low, it leaked, and that leak has a location: a Schrader core, a brazed joint, a service valve cap, or pinholes in the evaporator coil from formicary corrosion. We find it before quoting the repair.
Refrigerant now drives that decision more than age does. Manufacturers stopped building residential systems charged with R-410A at the start of 2025, and new equipment ships with lower-GWP refrigerants such as R-454B. R-410A is still legal to buy and put into the system you already own, and we do it constantly. But federal phasedown is squeezing supply and the price per pound has climbed steeply. Sealing a small joint leak and adding a pound is still an easy yes. A leaking evaporator coil on a fifteen-year-old system that needs a full charge is a real conversation.
| What failed | Usual answer | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Small joint leak, system a pound low | Repair: seal the joint and recharge | R-410A is still legal to buy and put into the system you already own |
| Leaking evaporator coil on a fifteen-year-old system | A real conversation, both numbers side by side | A full R-410A charge at today's supply and price |
| Dead compressor or corroded condenser on an older system | Usually both halves | A new R-454B condenser cannot pair with the existing indoor coil |
| Coil freezing every hot afternoon on undersized returns | Fix the ductwork | No amount of refrigerant fixes a duct problem |
Matching matters too. A new R-454B condenser cannot be paired with your existing indoor coil, because the refrigerants are not interchangeable and mixing them voids the equipment listing. On older systems a dead compressor or a corroded condenser therefore tends to mean both halves. You get both numbers side by side, with the reasoning behind each, before anything is ordered.
Salt is the hardest thing on outdoor equipment along the Jersey Shore. Airborne salt settles on the aluminum fins and copper tubing of a condenser, then morning humidity turns that film into an electrolyte and corrosion works from the outside in. A coil that would give fifteen good years inland gives noticeably fewer near the water. Rinsing it with fresh water on a schedule genuinely helps, and a coastal coil coating is worth specifying on any replacement near the beach. Where flooding or a high water table is in play, a pad-mounted condenser that has gone under once keeps failing, because contactors, wiring and compressor terminals corrode from within. An elevated stand ends that cycle.
Head north and the problem inverts. Older homes across New Hampshire and southern Maine were never designed around cooling. AC got added later to an oil or propane furnace, with an evaporator coil set on a blower and duct system sized to move warm air, not cold. Undersized returns are the usual outcome, and in July that shows up as a coil freezing every hot afternoon. No amount of refrigerant fixes a duct problem.
Across 925 completed cooling repairs in the last twelve months, half came in at $249 or less and three in four came in under $598. A capacitor or a contactor sits at the bottom of that range. A refrigerant leak found, repaired and recharged sits at the top of it, and sometimes above it.
Refrigerant is the line worth understanding before you get a quote. R-22 systems are long out of production, and R-410A is now in its own phasedown, so a leak on an older system is a question about the system rather than about the part.
| What moves the price | Why it moves it |
|---|---|
| Electrical part or sealed system | Capacitors, contactors and control boards are bolt-on work. Anything inside the refrigerant circuit means recovery, repair, evacuation and a measured charge. |
| Refrigerant type and charge | What the system runs on decides both the cost per pound and whether refilling it is money well spent. |
| Where the leak is | A fitting at the condenser is an afternoon. An evaporator coil buried in the air handler is a part, a day and a conversation about the age of the system. |
| Airflow faults that look like a fault | A dirty filter, a blocked return or an iced coil presents as no cooling and is not a repair at all. We would rather tell you that than sell you a part. |
High Ground completed jobs, trailing twelve months to October 2026, all three branches combined.
One licensed, veteran-owned team handles heating, cooling, plumbing and electrical across New Hampshire, northern and central New Jersey, and southern Maine. Permits pulled where the work requires them. Upfront pricing before a wrench moves. Same-day service where the schedule allows. A person answering the phone on the hottest day of the year instead of a voicemail box.
Every repair carries our Lifetime Workmanship Guarantee. If what we did does not hold, we come back and make it right, fast. That guarantee is exactly why our techs measure before they replace.
When you invite us into your home, we take that responsibility seriously. Every project - big or small, is handled with care, respect, and craftsmanship you can feel. Our Lifetime Workmanship Guarantee means every job is done right — or we make it right, fast.

Every technician undergoes rigorous training and continuous skill upgrades.

“They always kept me updated with the schedule. Made a rather complex job run like clockwork.”
- Dave, NH

“Super quick & professional. Looking forward to working with them in the future. Highly recommend!”
- Enrique, NJ

“Went out of his way to help us with our new house that we’d just purchased with helpful tips.”
- Eric, NH
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Why is my AC running but not cooling the house?
The most common causes are a failed run capacitor stopping the compressor while the indoor blower keeps going, a refrigerant leak that has dropped the charge, or airflow so restricted that the coil ices over. All three feel identical at the vent, which is why the fix starts with measurements rather than a guess.
Before you call, check the filter and make sure supply and return vents are open. If the filter is gray and packed, replace it and give the system an hour. If nothing changes, the fault is in the equipment.
Can I still get R-410A, or do I have to replace the whole system?
My AC iced up. What should I do before the technician arrives?
How often should a coastal air conditioner be serviced?
Is it worth repairing a 15-year-old air conditioner?
Why is my house humid even though the AC keeps running?
Tell us what you need - we’ll confirm your appointment and get your home back to comfortable, fast.
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Need someone now? Call (603) 262-3644
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